2007 Tablas Creek EdB Panoplie ****

Unfortunately, addictive. Charred embers, crushed, salty red berries and fresh floral notes in the glass. On the palate, moderate density, brine, sage, acacia, saffron and thyme; an unctuous, almost silken fatty calf's blood texture, with light smoke, ultra-lite menthol, sage and molasses on the finish. But lingering throughout is this lactobacillus-esque funky musk that is part feral Vampire bride, part sex by the side of the highway. I would have consumed the whole bottle if the 14.5% alcohol didn't knock me out first. Pure wow in a bottle.

Recent Fall Wines From Our House

NV Aubry Champagne * (from Andronicos). Deep dull straw color, almost gold. Hay, dried nuts and tart peaches on the nose. Very mild effervescence. Soulful, with full bodied flavors (quince, melon) but the minerality stands out (wet slate, dry lime). Despite all that, not as good as I remember.


2009 Dom. Bernard Defaix Chablis * Purchased at D&M Wines on Fillmore ($20). Light yellow gold. Predominantly pear and citrus on the nose and palate, with some light black licorice on the finish. Pairs very well with shellfish. Good value.

2010 Tablas Creek Rose ** (from the mailing list). Red color. Cherry hard candy aroma, with secondary notes of musk, leather on the palate. Very good value.

2010 Guigal Cotes Du Rhone **** pale yellow gold color. Concentrated canned pear juice on the nose. Very full and voluptuous white, with sweet peaches, mellow apple, vanilla, cream, and cinnamon cookies. A pleasant 30 second warming finish. This is a three star wine that costs $15. Great value.

2006 Le Secret des Sabon CdP ***

Dark plum color. Very closed on the nose, with mild notes of dry lavender and mellow herbs; then prunes, blood, and citrus notes as it breathes. This is monolithic, bold, and dense for the sheer pleasure of density, which is a style I can very much admire and enjoy - most often. There are typical purple fruit notes, with blood, char, and orange water, but the overall impression is that the wine is very closed at present and will continue to open up for another five years. What it will taste like at that age is difficult to say.

Also, I prefer the old, green, script label to this newish, ornate, and considerably less charming version.

1994 Dom. de la Vieille Julienne CdP *

Light to dark ruby with significant bricking and amber color. After opening the nose runs from musty to fully floral with candied pear notes. Predominantly stewed plum, with mild tang then truffles, savory, and wet earth notes. This is silky but adds tannin as it breathes - best to decant.