2004 Ridge Grenache Lytton Estate ATP **

Decidedly Ridge, but very grenache (mmm, grenache). Deep red rose/purple to the rim. A very American nose on this, but underneath its bursting fresh fruit. The nose is just gorgeous. A varietal driven grenache, with touches of sage and some noticeable dark cocoa, but the midpalate and finish are light. Serve this tomorrow on Thanksgiving, but keep just one for next year to see how it evolves.

2004 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino **

Maybe it's not too terribly popular to admit, but Argiano is one of my go-to Brunello producers.Luckily, the wine isn't difficult to find. I tasted the 2004 ** recently at Serrafina. It was served slightly too warm and without decanting - so not off to a great start.

This is deep garnet, almost translucent purple. Displaying a very reticent and primary nose of dried flowers, with nice acidity on the midnote and seemlessly integrated soft dry tannin. This is very nicely balanced and it opened up considerably after almost an hour to display more typical dark fruit/tar and chalky Brunello notes. It will receive a higher score if served at a proper termperature and with proper aeration and/or bottle age.

NV Marc Hebrart Premier Cru Brut Rose **

From Mareuil-sur-Ay, this brut rose is a pale blood orange / raw salmon color. Orange blossom and rose water compose the firm midnote, with nice citrus notes on the finish. Very suave and unusually long. From all 2005 fruit; equal parts pinot noir and chardonnay. A Terry Theise Estate Selection from Skurnik. Purchased at Heights Chateau.

2007 Joh. Jos. Prum (new releases) ***

Joh. Jos. Prum is almost too easy to love, and 2007 presents a very good year to collect these wines, so I recently ordered a mixed case and cracked a couple open. Perhaps predictably, my favorite wine of the night was also the most expensive, which ran me about $40 -- 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese **** This was light yellow gold with sweet peach notes on the nose. On the palate this is glorious, light and deft with a touch of zzzing! and citrus; finishes with long minerality. The 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese *** displayed more apricot and honeyed notes, grander in the mouth but not the heavenly texture of the Auslese. Similarly, the 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett *** is light with mildly honeyed notes, sacrificing a touch of mouth feel for minerality and structure. This is a fantastic value. As I drink these wines I am reminded of a 2007 Joh. Jos Christoffel Erben Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Gutsabfullung) *** I tasted over the summer. This last wine made such a powerful impression on me that I have compared everything that has come after to it ever since. A must find.

2006 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Croix de Bois **

I am a sucker for discounted Chapoutier. What can I say? Chapoutier's packaging is great, and I was glad to see these bottles arrived from the retailer still wrapped in brown tissue, their orange wax capsules emerging from the top. Some people claim these little touches mean nothing to the underlying wine, but I disagree. The tissue wrapping will prevent bin stins and the wax capsule may prevent closure problems in the future.

Pure grenache (mmm ... grenache) hand picked at the end of September and fermented in closed concrete tanks for 21 days before aging in vats for 14-16 months prior to blending and bottling. Deep ruby color. Stones and tart red notes on the nose. This is elegant but not at all restrained, very Burgundian in style with tangy frozen red fruits on the midnote and not at all overtly rich or overripe. I would have enjoyed a touch more ripeness on the finish, but maybe I've been jaded by California wines. A lovely wine for dinner, and probably warrants a higher score in 2-3 years.